The descent from the Pyrenees through alpine forests and more pastoralia was challenging but pleasant. The overcast weather has been a blessing since it’s true the Camino is generally a very exposed trail and any amount of afternoon sun can get brutal quickly. We passed through several small quiet villages, occasionally stopping for a cafe con leche or tortilla (which is a frittata type snack). I’ve had a few meals with a group of pilgrims who I’ve stayed in touch with via WhatsApp, but have mostly enjoyed wandering on my own. Most people are packed up and heading out before 8 a.m. but I’ve been taking it slower in the morning. I make an American sized coffee with the better than average instant coffee here, review the trail map, and pack my bag. I’m enjoying the communal living in the albergues and my usual light & sound blocking strategies are working pretty well.

More than anything, I’m loving the daily ritual of walking. When I’m using my poles it’s like very slow skiing, with lots of decisions to make but time to make them. Each day has been about 15 miles of walking which takes me about 6 hours with a few short stops. My legs are still acclimating but my head is in a good place to take in the sights and sounds of Navarre without feeling rushed or anxious. There’s really nothing to worry about on this trail- no bears, venomous snakes, or insects. Water, solitude, and companionship are all plentiful. All you have to do is keep moving forward.